181-184. Arnavutköy to Istanbul, Turkey

October 9-12, 2024

Miles: 28.18. Total: 7,925 miles/12,751 km.

I've fallen way behind on my blogging again, mostly because I've had terrific traveling companions and visitees (Ange, Rachel, Keri, Nikolina, Vincent, Gav, Plamena, Anton, Ali) whose company I enjoyed so much I neglected my writing.

But tonight I fly to China, and so I want to bid an official adieu to Europe before I move on to a new continent.

I am in Istanbul, having spent a few days here to do some maintenance on my bike (thanks, Aktif Pedal!), take care of some logistics (thanks, Gav, for letting me use your computer!), and, best of all, see Ali Sarilgan, Arroyo RA extraordinaire, in his natural habitat (thanks, Ali, for crossing the Bosporous for brunch and a palace tour!). Each of these has been its own adventure, worthy of more than I am posting here. But your girl is tired and has a plane to catch.

I will note this: Istanbul has changed a lot since I first visited it with the inimitable Iris Mauss 21 years ago. (Aye. My memories are now old enough to legally drink in the U.S.) Many more women are covering their heads, prices are much higher, and the bustle of this busy and beautiful city seems to be wearing more on its denizens.

Nevertheless, Istanbul is still such a charmer, with all its layers of east and west, water and mountain, past and future. Just sitting on a (remarkably clean and punctual) bus and watching it all undulate is high entertainment. And of course, any place with this many cats is going to be near and dear to my heart.

Istanbul is also the edge of Europe. Having just cycled the width of Europe, from Lisbon to here, I keenly feel that edge, and want to jump off it to the next part of my adventure.

So so long, Europe, and thanks for all the cheese.